THE Old House Hotel has been a fixture of Wickham for decades.

With its prime position in the heart of the village square and its attractive front complete with creeping plants, it would always attract attention from the wandering passer-by.

However, under a new name and format, it is hoping to thrill a whole raft of new customers, not just those staying overnight.

Now the hotel has been relaunched under two linked ventures – the Old House Restaurant and Bar, separated though in the same building as the B+B Wickham.

Taken over by the B+B Collection, part of the Intelligence group, this will be the firm’s first venture into fine dining and staff have been preparing a new menu and extensive wine list.

But do the changes pay off?

Inside, the two cosy bars lead on to the dining room, which has hardly changed and has an open airy feel thanks to the conservatory style back, and the classic white walls and wooden beams combination.

You could easily imagine a birthday or anniversary meal here or in the attractive garden area.

I had the pea and watercress soup with horseradish foam starter which was delicate and refreshing and not too filling or sickly as some soups can be.

My companion had sea bass carpaccio which was very stylishly arranged and I was assured tasted excellent.

Much time has been spent on bringing the food and wine menus into sync and educating staff on the different wines, guided by restaurant manager Miguel Alonso.

Some wines have been paired with particular dishes on the menu as suggestions and the restaurant says ensuring a wide selection, a dozen of white and red, has been a focus, along with securing the best quality steaks.

Chef Andy Millard sourced local suppliers for produce.

Much time has been spent, I am told, on sourcing the best meat, which is hung from the hip for 28 days instead of the foot, and I couldn’t resist seeing whether it could live up to the hype.

That extra effort really pays off.

The steak absolutely melted in the mouth with an amazing flavour and was easily the best I have ever tasted and I would happily go back for that alone, especially when coated in the creamy blue cheese sauce.

For dessert I had the dark chocolate dome while my companion chose the rhubarb and custard – a twist on the traditional dish with iced soufflé, jellied rhubarb and rhubarb and custard sand – which I am told tasted like popping candy – and it looked rather quirky.

Mine consisted of a hard outer layer and soft inner chocolate mousse which was delicious and rich while the passion fruit sorbet in a ginger brandy snap casing provided a nice contrast.

My meal, with a glass of wine, would set you back around £50, which although not the cheapest of meals out is in my opinion well worth splashing out on, particularly as the steak is unrivalled.

By Emma Streatfield

Old House Restaurant and Bar, The Square, Wickham, PO17 5JG 01329 835870