A LOUD thwap, thwap reverberates around the temple as my friend, held down by two old men in red wicker hats, undergoes what can only be described as one of the weirdest religious traditions in the world: a spiritual spanking by a Taoist priest to exorcise bad luck.

On a whirlwind tour of a nation best known for its cheap electronics, regular typhoons and historical animosity towards China, we are here to uncover the ‘other side’ of Taiwan – the food, history, fun and traditions – but no one, I can assure you, ever expected to be voluntarily beaten by a man with glaucoma and a cricket bat.

Nearly 60 years after it was founded by intellectuals, soldiers, monks and artists fleeing Communist China, Taiwan is still a total enigma to most Western tourists.

Roughly half the geographical size of Scotland, this nation of 23 million has established itself as one of Asia’s greatest success stories – an island with a fervent democracy, healthy sense of humour and vibrant economy, whose people are rich in both wallet and intellect.

With self-administered hyperbole at practically every turn, Taiwan is also home to one of the healthiest self-images that exists in the world today.

Boasting restaurants named Really Good Seafood and shops called Your Favourite Place, Terrific Taiwan, as it is referred to by its ministry of tourism, has invested heavily in international advertising to increase tourism to this so-called Heart of Asia.

It may be a bit off the normal path, but for anyone up for an adventure, or for those curious about China’s recent history, Taiwan is definitely worth a visit.

We’ve arrived in Taipei, a somewhat industrial capital reminiscent at times of Gotham City, during Taiwan’s lantern festival – a 15-day affair coinciding with Chinese New Year.

The next day we jet off in a futuristic high-speed train to explore the southern beaches and coral outcrops of Taiwan.

But it is our night at Taiwan’s largest Buddhist monastery, Fo Guang Shan, that really stands out.

Wandering among the 10,000 images of Buddha on the temple’s peaceful grounds, we’re introduced to the fervent spirituality that many Taiwanese feel towards their faith, whether it’s Confucian, Taoist or Buddhist – or a mash-up of all three.

Taiwan is famous for housing some of the most significant Chinese art in Asia – from ancient bronze and jade to modernday calligraphy and ceramics – so I am delighted to spend an afternoon in the artistic village of Jiufen, set high in the mountains east of Taipei, once we return to the capital.

Its tiny lanes are rife with handmade pottery, antique curios, cliffhanging teahouses, and little restaurants selling everything from homemade sweets to pork dumplings and spicy corn on the cob.

On our last night, we decide to dine at Taipei’s weirdest-themed establishment: Modern Toilet. At this novelty restaurant in Taipei’s fashionable Ximending neighbourhood, customers eat curries and hotpots out of mini-toilet bowls – while sitting on life-size toilets. The food, to say the least, leaves something to be desired, so we head out to the famous nightmarket of Shilin, where cheap clothes and cheap eats are a dime a dozen. The sticky sweet fried taro balls and Indian parathas are a big hit among locals. The next day, I share a deliciously fragrant lunch of pork grilled with sweet sesame, oyster and ginger soup, fried taro, and water-lily salad with our guide Mike, and use the opportunity to ask him how the Taiwanese really see themselves, compared to the rest of the world?

“I visited Europe a few months ago, and have also travelled to America and many different parts of Asia – but never China,”

he tells me. “Look at our trains – they are cleaner, wider and more comfortable than the Eurostar. Taipei is cleaner than Paris. We do have some problems – unemployment is too high, for example – but,” – and here he pauses for effect – “Taiwan really is the best place on earth.

Even our convenience stores are more convenient.”

I realise that not only is Mike serious – but that after a week of seeing it for myself, I’m beginning to believe it.