THE colossal snow-capped mountains gleam dazzlingly white against the pale blue sky.

Their icy peaks soar to thousands of feet, reflecting spring sunlight which sparkles off the freezing sea below.

An immense glacier groaning with millions of years of ice and snow looms above two sheer slopes.

Across the bay tiny cottages, warehouses and wharfs hug the mountainside with sporadic silver birches reaching towards the sunshine.

Suddenly a booming foghorn breaks the silence, rumbling across the harbour as our ship prepares to leave.

Welcome to the Arctic Awakening – an epic journey along the northern Norwegian coast.

It is the spring leg of a 1,330 nautical mile route between Bergen and Kirkenes and back again, run by shipping company Hurtigruten.

The passage is internationally renowned as ‘the world’s most beautiful voyage’.

As I gazed out at the country’s fifth largest glacier at Øksfjord harbour it’s easy to see why.

Daily Echo: MS Nordnorge

Hurtigruten first sailed the Trondhiem to Hammerfest leg in 1893, translating as ‘fast route’ due to its swiftness compared to overland travel at the time.

Today it serves the entire route’s 34 ports forming a daily lifeline for the region.

Its 12 ships serve as local transport as well as tourism and three-quarters of last year’s 400,000 passengers were local residents.

For tourists it’s an intriguing opportunity to explore the Arctic’s stunning landscape, wildlife, culture and hospitality while freight is transported and Norwegians go about their daily lives.

I joined the 623-passenger vessel MS Nordnorge on the southbound leg from Kirkenes as far as Tromso passing breathtaking mountains, fjords and islands.

The north-easterly town of Kirkenes is high in the Arctic Circle and just ten miles from the Russian border.

Before setting sail I spent a night in its incredible Snow Hotel where winter and early spring guests can brave nights sleeping in one of 22 rooms carved out of ice.

Daily Echo: Kirekenes Snow Hotel

Snuggled in a heavyweight sleeping bag I withstood temperatures of -4C in an igloo-like room adorned by stunning ice sculptures bathed in blue and purple lights.

Daytime wilderness excursions included exhilarating husky sledding trips across frozen fjords and lakes.

The King Crab fishing trip consisted of a snow mobile ride to frozen fjords.

Guides drilled through the ice and hauled the crustaceans from freezing waters below which we ate at the nearby rustic wooden cottage of the Gabba Wilderness restaurant.

Daily Echo: Huskies

Leaving Kirkenes the air sea is so fresh you can almost taste it as the ship passes low windswept mountains isolated as if on the edge of the earth.

Eventually taking refuge from the brisk Arctic wind I watched the scenery unfold from the ship’s panorama lounge.

Migrating birds and wildlife including puffins and white-tailed eagles return in spring but apart from some fleeting seals further south, winter had yet to loosen its grip on our voyage.

Daily Echo: Wildlife returning for spring

After a handful of night-time stops next morning we docked in Hammerfest – the world’s most northerly town.

The high street leads to its elegant church with impressive stained glass window and views across its harbour and mountains.

The Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society’s museum pays tribute to the iconic creature and town mascot, which visitors can join for a small fee.

Turning south the mountains rise to rockier heights.

I relaxed in the ship’s hot tub watching the picturesque polar landscape pass by.

Upon sunset we celebrated the first of the season’s sailing through the enchanting Lygenfjord.

Approaching the dramatic peaks the sun’s rays cast reds and pinks glows on the mountainside.

Daily Echo: Fjords at sunset

Nestling at the fjord entrance is The Havnnes trading post where the aroma of fish fills the air.

Hundreds of cod hang in racks on the shoreline and stacked high in crates in the harbour’s warehouse awaiting shipment.

We sample the tasty – slightly difficult to chew delicacy – naturally preserved after hanging for four months in the cold salty air.

The town’s traditional houses here were spared from destruction during the Nazi occupation when surrounding villages were burned to the ground.

Its quaint general store dating back to 1916 is decorated in vintage signs advertising everything from soap to tobacco.

After leaving local fishermen come aboard with a haul of fresh prawns to enjoy over a cold beer on deck.

Daily Echo: Havnnes trading post

More than 75 per cent of Hurtigruten’s food is sourced locally under the firm’s Norway Coastal
Kitchen concept.

By night lucky spring time visitors may be able to catch a glimpse of the magnificent Northern Lights normally most visible on winter evenings.

But as we cruise into the Arctic capital Tromso – flanked by magnificent white mountains ghostly in the darkness – they were unfortunately nowhere to be seen.

The city is one of the country’s cultural gems with its stunning Arctic cathedral, museums, galleries and a lively social scene.

Disembarking felt strange to be on dry land again as I ended an epic adventure on a journey I will remember for a lifetime.

Factfile

Hurtigruten Arctic Awakening

Daily Echo: On deck at Oksfjord 

HURTIGRUTEN runs 12 day or seven day tours from Bergen to Kirkenes and back again.

The Arctic Awakening is one of three seasonal themed tours including the Autumn Gold and
Hunting the Light in autumn and winter respectively.

  •  The 12-day Classic Round Voyage departing from Bergen on August 22 and including flights from Stansted and transfers starts at £1,733 per person (based ontwo people sharing an inside cabin on full board basis.).
  • A 12-day voyage from Bergen to Kirkenes and back to Bergen departing on a choice of dates in November or December 2014 costs from £1,295pp (based on two sharing, on full board basis).
  • Hurtigruten currently have a special offer of 50 per cent off the second passenger price when traveling with a full fare paying passenger. As a result, the voyage price for a limited period is £941 per person. Flights and transfers may be added for an additional £330 per person.
  • A five-day Arctic highlights package from Tromso to Kirkenes and back again on half board basis, including flights and transfers calls £1,019 per person departing on March 2 2015.
  • For more information call Hurtigruten on tel: 020 3582 6642 or visit hurtigruten.co.uk

Snow Hotel

Daily Echo: Snow Hotel at night

  • The Radius Kirkenes Snow Hotel opens from December to May.
  • An overnight stay at the snow hotel is £241pp for 2014.
  • Cabins at the snow hotel start from £198 per person, including dinner and breakfast (based on two people sharing).
  • King crab safari costs £137pp, while dog sledding is £124pp in 2014.
  • Contact: kirkenessnowhotel.com Tel. 0047 7897 0541.