Jane Sullivan gets away from it all at Gilpin country house hotel in the Lake District

I know my husband is out there somewhere, trudging some distant ridge, back bent against the elements.

I take another sip of wine, press the jet button on my private hot tub and reflect that, really, things could be very much worse.

We’ve come to the Lakes for some much needed R&R. But where my husband thinks this means Rough and Rigorous, I’m much more of a Relax with Red wine kind of girl.

I’m certainly in the right place. While he manfully sets off to stride the fells, I selflessly stay behind and check into Gilpin, a luxury, family-run country house hotel in a beautiful woodland setting just two miles outside Windermere.

Walking inside is like coming home, and that’s exactly how the Cunliffe family wants you to feel. There’s no imposing reception area to greet you – just the smiling manager, who stops to chat in front of a small table and a huge vase of flowers.

We walk through the main Edwardian building and out to one of six garden suites, each opening onto their own decking area and featuring waterfalls, lush plants and a cedarwood hot tub. All rooms at Gilpin are strikingly decorated, and each has its own distinct charm. There are statement wallpapers and wall-mounted fireplaces; huge sparkling bathrooms and heavy silk drapes.

All rooms are furnished to the same luxurious standard – you’ll just pay more for space. The plush country house feel sweeps throughout the hotel, which is a triumph of traditional style brought bang up to date with clever modern twists.

And even though you’re aware you’re somewhere very special, you never feel the need to talk in hushed tones. Staff are warm and approachable and nothing is too much trouble. One woman, who enjoyed many visits to Gilpin with her husband, returned to scatter his ashes on the fells behind the hotel. Not only did staff help her plan her route, but one actually made the emotional trip with her. No marketing plan this; it was actually her day off.

But the remarkable staff – many of whom have been at Gilpin for years – are just one part of the complex series of factors that makes this such a special place.

It’s worth visiting Gilpin just for the food. The modern English menu features local organic produce and as I peruse it from the depths of a cavernous sofa in the lounge, I realise it brings out two of my less-agreeable qualities: greed and indecision. Should I opt for the Herdwick lamb with garlic potato puree, or the roast breast and confit leg of Goosnargh duck?

Thankfully, I am able to cover pretty much every option, as dinner is included each night of our stay, and comprises five courses and canapés. There are also one or two amuse bouches sprinkled in there for good measure – I’m still day-dreaming about the blackcurrant and liquorice ice.

Not only spoilt for choice with food, there are also four dining rooms, each with its own particular charm. Tables are reserved for the entire evening, so guests can linger over their meal, and take full advantage of the talented sommelier, who matches wines with each course with knowledge and enthusiasm.

While greed probably won hands down on my first evening, I decide not to dwell on too much description when my husband finally reappears on the second day.

Tired, wet, and hungry after a night eating reconstituted food under canvas on the hills, he falls with delight on the afternoon tea I’ve thoughtfully ordered (I managed to bump up the order to tea for two while he was unpacking), and then retires to our room for a sports massage pre-booked from a range of in-room spa treatments.

And that’s the joy of Gilpin. The Lake District has so many attractions it’s easy to spend your time in a whirlwind of activity; visiting Beatrix Potter’s hilltop home, following in Wordsworth’s footsteps, and roaming those craggy peaks and fells. But if you just want to pause awhile, gather your senses and drink in those perfect views far from the madding crowd, Gilpin could just possibly prove to be the best attraction of all.