PREVIOUSLY home to The Tiffin Club and The Old Delhi Eatery, there’s been something of a tradition of Indian food at 1 Oxford Street in recent years.

But tradition – in the gentlest and most respectful of ways – has had a rocket put up it by this unassuming corner house’s latest occupier.

Not only are those curry house staples of flock wallpaper and wailing background music notable by their absence – although the parquet floor and chandelier give a satisfying hint of Jewel in the Crown opulence – but Rasraj’s menu boasts such thrillingly unexpected ingredients as locally sourced rainbow trout and water buffalo.

Bhaji and and biriani fans have no cause for concern, though. All the classics are present and correct, but the thoughtfulness that has gone into the choosing and cooking of the ingredients (manager Sonu prides himself on being the only ethnic member of local food collective Hampshire Fare) immediately suggests Rasraj is a cut above the average.

The restaurant has dining rooms on two floors, with a dumb waiter to whisk your food up from the kitchens below. It was fairly quiet on the weekday night we visited, but no less intimate for that, and the warmth of the welcome certainly made up for the chilly evening outside.

We started with a mixed kebab – moist, fragrant chicken marinated in herbs, an intensely flavoured sheesh kebab and a soft, spicy onion bhaji – and a delhi chaat – fried potato patties on a bed of highly spiced chickpeas, yoghurt and chutneys. The latter had me reaching for a cooling glass of water – I’m a complete wuss, spice-wise - but these substantial starters were good enough to make us burn with anticipation of delights to come.

For the main event I went for an old favourite, mutter paneer – green peas and paneer cheese cooked with fragrant kasoori methi leaves in a creamy sauce – while my more adventurous partner in dine just had to give the award-winning mama’s fish biran (featuring the aforementioned trout) a whirl. Both were delicious and had us rhapsodising like the two pretentious old windbags we are.

We rounded things off with a classic kulfi ice cream and some sort of mango and orange blossom affair, which cleansed, soothed and sweetened in all the right ways.

Our meal for two, with drinks and side dishes, came to about £45.

• For reservations and takeaway orders call 023 8023 3433. Website: rasrajindia.co.uk.

Rasraj, 1 Oxford Street, Southampton.