Described as ‘chic and discreet’ in its brochure, I was surprised to find that, aside from the welcome and the service, this charming hotel had seemingly undersold itself.

Yes, I suppose, in terms of kerb appeal, Flemings in Mayfair isn’t as shouty as some of its higher-profile competitors – it’s compact and tucked away down a quiet side-street – but inside it purrs flamboyant glamour.

Polished marble floors, eye-catching brass sculptures, large mosaic mirrors, bright spotty chairs against thick-striped wallpaper – this privately owned Georgian jewel certainly makes a modern statement.

I was less taken with the pretend bookcase in the library or with the maze of dark corridors that eventually led to the cocktail bar, but once found, the sparkle returned.

Cobalt blue armchairs and velvet banquettes are dotted with plump cushions in eye-catching magenta. Against a backdrop of patterned walls are shiny, silver leaf ceilings and twinkly chandeliers; it’s an opulent but elegant look. The cocktail list, explained the charismatic barman, was in the middle of an overhaul, so he shook us up a couple of originals off-menu.

This was all prerequisite to dining in The Grill, which has managed to prise Jamie Oliver’s protégé Simon Henbery away from Fifteen to become its new head chef. Concentrating on rustic, robust flavours, his menu features modern European food with a twist, using seasonal ingredients.

Uncomplicated starters such as paté, celeriac soup or pork pie with home-made salad cream were tempting. My smoked salmon starter with beetroot and horseradish was clean and fresh on the palate but the salmon could have been a little more generous, while my husband’s terrine was meaty and earthy but needed more bread. When brought, the rolls were still warm and delicious and our simply-presented ribeye steaks were juicy, well-seasoned and well-cooked. A peppery watercress salad complemented the beef and American-style fries were suitably thin and crispy.

Other wholesome mains included veal chops, chateaubriand and grilled lemon sole. Our desserts – wobbly lemon posset with lavender shortbread and gooey sticky toffee pudding – both surpassed expectation.

It’s Henbery’s wish to see The Grill compete as one of the top places to eat in London, but with so much competition, he has his work cut out.

But afternoon tea pulls out all the stops with colourful, decadent cupcakes from Primrose Bakery and exotic fruit teas.

Flemings is an intriguing hotel, revered by its loyal clientele and now attracting a new generation seeking a fashionable hotspot.

Its brilliant location stands it in good stead, with so many fantastic attractions nearby and Green Park tube station just across the road. For pure luxury you could stay in one of the hotel’s separate apartments but if you are just looking for a nice bolthole in the posh end of town, Flemings is reasonably priced with bags of style.