Stepping into a different world

IT was time for an ice cream. We were in Ventnor and had just enjoyed a fresh crab sandwich and a couple of drinks at The Spyglass Inn (as nautically themed as it sounds – and look out for the skeleton in the glass cabinet on the way to the loo) when we agreed a stroll along the seafront was in order.

It was hardly ice cream weather – the tops of the hills couldn’t be seen behind us for mist and cloud, and in front of us the sea and sky competed for shades of grey.

But we spotted one particular ice cream parlour – Minghella’s.

I have been a film writer for this newspaper for more than 20 years and I have interviewed the late, great film director Anthony Minghella a couple of times. He won an Oscar for The English Patient, and before that worked with a group of disabled youngsters from Swindon on the romantic ghost story Truly Mady Deeply.

He was always interesting and pleasant to talk to – a very nice bloke. And he was a native of the Isle of Wight. But on the Isle of Wight the name Minghella means ice cream rather than movies and it was only right we should sample this delicious local confection.

And so we strolled along the prom in silence for a few moments, me dipping my tongue into my Oriental ginger and honey cone, while my wife Helen licked her rum-soaked raisin.

We were on the island for four days, a couple of “overners” as mainland visitors are nicknamed locally, trying to cram as much sightseeing into our stay as possible.

It’s easy to think that because the Isle of Wight is cut off from England, it’s a hassle to get there. That couldn’t be further from the truth.

A 90-minute drive to Portsmouth and before we knew it we were aboard the Wightlink ferry and chugging across the Solent. We barely had time for a cup of coffee before we arrived at Fishbourne.

The Isle of Wight is plainly part of England, yet it is almost like stepping into another world. Or at least like taking a trip back in time.

I joked about forgetting my passport and which side of the road should I drive on as we left the ferry, such was a not unpleasant sense of displacement. It’s like arriving at an island-sized theme park, with something for everyone, and for all ages.

Arriving on the Isle of Wight with no plans or itinerary is quite an exiciting prospect.

So, once you are settled in, what to see and do? You could simply set out in car, on bike or on foot and very soon you are likely to see something interesting and attractive.

But the Isle of Wight is a tourist destination and there are guides aplenty to browse, including a number of useful trails. Walking, cycling, driving, history, shopping, food and drink – they are all here and all very tempting for visitors.

We made a point of downloading a selection before we set off, never really expecting to complete all of them, but here is a taster of some things to try out…

The Isle of Wight is a lovely location in the often mild and sunny south of England where peace and quiet can be found within a few minutes of any of its bustling towns.

Yet for centuries its location has been of significant strategic importance. Portsmouth and Southampton are just beyond its northern shores and would have been tempting prizes for any invaders (particularly those pesky Frenchies).

So as you make your ferry crossing, look out for some of the Palmerston Forts which dot the seascape. They were named after the Victorian Prime Minister Lord Palmerston and were built in the mid 19th century to deter invasion by the French.

We paid a visit to an older structure during our stay. Carisbrooke Castle, in the heart of the island, has a history going back more than 800 years, but has two major claims to fame.

King Charles I was held prisoner here for a year, before being taken back to London in November 1649 to have his head cut off.

By all accounts he was well treated at the castle, despite the odd escape attempt, and you can still stroll on the pristine patch of grass where the monarch played bowls.

The castle’s other major point of interest involves a treadmill, a 161ft well… and some donkeys. The well goes back to the 12th century and the treadmill was introduced in 1587 to raise water in a bucket. It was once operated by prisoners, and later donkeys were employed to do the, erm, donkey work.

And there are still donkeys there today, giving regular demonstrations on the treadmill to get a bit of exercise and entertain the visitors. It was Jack’s turn on our visit, and it was quite amazing how enthralled we were by watching him effectively walk on the spot to make the mechanism work, switching our attention from placid Jack to the bucket slowly rising from the pit below.

It’s surprising how diverse the scenery is on the Isle of Wight. The rolling hills, woodland and patchwork fields of the interior resemble the Cotswolds, while some of the more dramatic coastline brings Cornwall to mind.

We were staying at the southernmost tip and that part of the island demands to be explored on foot.

We braved some rugged terrain to take in St Catherine’s Point and its lighthouse, commanding spectacular views over the Channel and the chalk cliffs to the west.

And if you’re feeling particularly romantic, it’s a great spot for glorious sunsets too.

Despite what that sunset promised on our first evening, the following day was wet and windy, but we were still determined to head west and visit one of the country’s most famous and spectacular coastal landmarks: The Needles.

Park and amuse yourself at the theme park nearby if that is your wont, but the real adventure is the pathway that leads to the end of this wild and buffeted headland, where you get a fabulous view of the jagged peaks and their lighthouse, a foreboding but breathtaking site.

South from this spot is nothing but sea and sky; just north are the multi-coloured cliffs and sands of Alum Bay, and beyond that is the mainland, seemingly in touching distance at this point. There can surely be few better views in England.

Cowes, Ryde, Sandown, Shanklin, Bembridge, Ventnor, Yarmouth – the names of these towns conjure up images of the Isle of Wight as much as its beaches and cliffs. And it’s the towns and villages that give it the sense of never quite having caught up with the 21st century – or the 20th century for that matter.

The aforementioned Ventnor, in the south east, certainly has a style and pace of its own, with the esplanade offering a bracing stroll.

From there we drove up to Ryde, which is in the north east but still only about half and hour away.

Ryde is bigger and busier (one long stretch of seafront was occupied by dozens and dozens of Vespa scooters – there was a convention in town) and is proud of its Victorian heritage, despite commercialisation to meet the demands of the modern tourist, and possibly daytrippers arriving from Portsmouth on the hovercraft.

Do take a look at the pier though – the listed structure is the oldest and fourth longest in the UK.

Cowes is about as cosmopolitan as it gets on the Isle of Wight.

The town is situated on – and indeed split in two by – the River Medina estuary and has a long and proud association with all things sailing, with the town claiming its annual regatta to be the biggest and most famous in the world.

A pleasant day can be spent at Cowes. The seafront at West Cowes offers grand views across the river to the quieter East Cowes, and across the sea to the Hampshire coastline.

Cowes is also probably the island’s best town if your fancy a spot of shopping.

If you’ve time, do delve into the interior to stop off at some of the island’s many villages, for which the words “charming” and “timeless” seem to have been invented.

Perhaps the most famous of these is Godshill, where a stroll up the small hill to the cluster of picturesque thatched cottages and imposing church is worth effort. The rest of the village, however, is a bit of a tourist trap.

OK, so besides the crab sandwich and yummy ice cream at Ventnor, where else is there to eat and drink on the Isle of Wight?

Well, plenty of places actually and the island’s Taste Trail is probably the best way to get the most out of the Isle of Wight eating out experience.

All the towns have a selection of fine restaurants, and of course you can hardly drive past a village green or round a bend on a country lane without spying a pub.

We were staying in the village of Niton and enjoyed a very nice Sunday lunch at its friendly local, the White Lion.

And on the evening of our sunset stroll, in a part of Niton known as the Undercliff, we visited The Buddle Inn, a delightful pub that serves excellent local beer, and we tucked into a delicious beef stew and dumplings.

For any couple who aren’t necessarily watching their budgets or their waistlines, the Taste Trail is worth serious consideration, because it could combine excellent dining experiences with some comprehensive sightseeing.

And actually, it needn’t be that expensive – farm shops and tea shops abound, and if the slice of home-made bread pudding I picked up for lunch at a farmers’ market in Newport is anything to go by, you won’t want anything for the rest of the day.

Well, perhaps just another Minghella’s ice cream…

Plenty of room in barn hideaway

We stayed at Niton Barns, a cluster of converted barns in a quiet village which can cater for couples or for large parties of up to 14.

Our barn was called Tennyson (the poet had a long association with the island) and it was a delight.

It was a bit of a Tardis, looking quite small from the outside, but offering plenty of room for two inside, with a spacious and well equipped living space, kitchen and dining area. There was a bathroom with good-sized shower, and the bedroom has space for a double bed, wardrobe, drawers, telly, and in one corner... a bath. Now that gives a whole new meaning to en suite.

A week at Niton Barns starts at about £370, rising to just over £700 in the summer. Weekend and mid-week breaks are also available.

Pepper Pot, which sleeps up to 14, starts at just over £700 for the week, rising to around £2,000 in the summer.

Visit the website at www.nitonbarns.co.uk for more details.

l Our ferry crossing was with Wightlink, from Portsmouth to Fishbourne. The fare for a car and two passengers in May are not much more than £30 return depending on time of travel. Crossings are also available from Lymington to Yarmouth. More details at www.wightlink.co.uk l For general tourist information about the Isle of Wight, including accommodation booking, go to www.visitwight.co.uk.