AS a nation surrounded by the sea, it never ceases to amaze that we have so few good quality fish restaurants.

With such a bounty of fresh fish and seafood, there should be one on every high street but sadly that isn't the case.

So when you come across one that serves beautiful fish with great style and professionalism, it cheers your heart - and Lemon Sole in Old Portsmouth is just such a place.

From the High Street frontage, it's difficult to imagine what culinary wonders lie inside but the place is a veritable Tardis.

From the outset it looks like an intimate little restaurant with just a few tables but step inside and it opens out into quite a sizeable place, cheerfully decorated in hues of yellow and blue.

The main activity centres around a beautifully presented fish counter - and it's here that you are first likely to meet the likeable proprietor Sunil Sood.

There is nothing this friendly patron doesn't know about service - he trained with the Raj group of hotels in India before stints with Disney in Paris and Fortnum and Mason in London. He instinctively knows what the customer wants and he is happy to provide it.

Forget about menus and wine lists, at Lemon Sole you can choose your fish dishes from the selection on display and dine a la carte without the cost being prohibitive.

I had succulent seared scallops in a caramelised sauce with bacon that combined beautifully on the tongue, while my partner enjoyed the duo of white bait and calamari.

Next he had the Baramundi - an Australian fish from the heart of the New Forest - with a barbecue sauce, while I opted for the Lemon Sole in a cream sauce. Both dishes were exemplary and made us wonder why we don't eat more fresh fish.

Equally if you have simpler tastes, you can have the fish with a little butter and squeeze of lemon the choice is yours.

We had a crisp Chablis with our meal - the perfect accompaniment - and there is a wealth of wines on offer.

It's well worth making the journey to Old Portsmouth to visit Lemon Sole - it's a culinary gem and great value for money.

KATE THOMPSON