IN A culture blas about exotic foods from across the world, Nepalese fare is still capable of raising eyebrows.

But not in Winchester, where locals have long been able to stop off at the Gurkha Chef and sample a taste of the Himalayas.

The ancient city's long links with the famously ferocious Gurkha regiments of the British army mean this intimate restaurant oozes authenticity.

But, like the Gurkha Beer on offer on its menu, it's also undoubtedly made in England, albeit to a Nepalese recipe.

People will tell you "it's just like curry," but there's more to it than that. Similar, maybe, but it's the differences that really set it apart.

You could be forgiven for thinking you'd stumbled into a regulation curry house on catching site of some of the starters. Popadoms and chutneys are the tried and trusted appetisers. Also familiar is the chicken or lamb chat, which is nevertheless nicely executed in its spicy, chocolate-brown sauce.

But the stars of the starter show are Raja Jhinge - truly king-sized prawns cooked in a clay oven with yoghurt and spices until they're softly chewy and four of them just isn't enough, especially when other hands are scrambling for a taste.

There are hitherto unheard of dishes lurking here too, such as Chata Mari - a tasty pastry enclosing egg and meat or vegetables.

A Nepalese classic, apparently, Lasoon pickled itself from the menu of Bhancha Ko Parika (main dishes). Its mildly-hot sauce of spring onion, coriander and garlic coating tender lamb, made any explanation for its classic status unnecessary.

Manag Ko Khasi hails from the Everest region in north-east Nepal and is comfortably as tasty as any good curry, combining lamb, garlic and ginger with mincemeat as an unusual twist. Delicious - especially when scooped off the plate with a hunk of garlic naan.

But it is the Pokhereli Macaha you'll be recommending to friends, if you can pronounce it. Arriving all steam and sizzle on a black iron skillet, cod has rarely tasted this good and works beautifully with a portion of citrus-y fresh lemon rice.

All this is in a tastefully decorated restaurant complete with faultlessly attentive service - not bad for army food.

Gurkha Chef, 17 City Road, Winchester. To book a table call 01962 842843.