TUCKED away in Chandler's Ford's uninspiring concrete development, the Central Precinct, is this absolute gem of a restaurant.

In many ways the Thai Cottage deserves a greater showing - a grander frontage, a more lucrative spot in a city centre high street, a bigger dining area.

But its charm lies in the fact that it's a small, local, "undiscovered" eating spot, where diners know they can always get a table and always enjoy a great meal.

We ordered the set menu A, which came with the usual suspects of Thai cuisine.

There were mixed starters of satay, spring rolls and prawn wraps, complete with the sometimes bewildering array of sauces (which one goes with which starter?).

But they came minus the over-greasiness characteristic of some Asian meals and were refreshingly tasty.

The same goes for the main course.

Chicken and cashew, beef and oyster sauce and Thai curry are often served up in the sweet glutinous sauce we've come to expect of Chinese food.

But at the Thai Cottage, flavours seem much more delicate and refined.

The mild curry had the powerful Thai taste of lemon-grass and the chicken came in a subtly flavoured sauce, with stacks of cashews.

The whole delicious meal was washed down with Singa beer, as only a Thai meal can be.

The basic decor inside the restaurant pointed at most of the selling power being carried out by the food itself.

Tables are crammed in - we found ourselves joining in with the conversation of the couple next to us - but it gives the place a friendly, easy-come easy-go feel.

Neighbours even popped in for their Saturday night takeaway wearing slippers and tartan shorts, grabbing a swift beer before heading off to settle in front of the TV.

The bill for a set meal for two including a few beers each clocked in at just over £40.

Reservations: 023 8026 6830.

CLAIRE MORIARTY