This should be a theatre review, but massive hold ups on the M27 meant there was no way we would arrive at Chichester in time for curtain up--or even the interval.

Thoroughly fed up we turned back to Winchester and made for the Cellar Peking in Jewry Street.We came in from torrential rain to a warm welcome, ordered a cold beer and relaxed.

Steve and I opted for the Szechuan, one of three special menus in addition to an extensive range of dishes reflecting the different styles of Chinese cuisine.

The first course was a meal in itself, spicy smoked shredded chicken contrasting well with one of my favourites, the crispy seaweed.We tackled the satay chicken, a deep fried Szechuan parcel and spare ribs, using chop sticks with more enthusiasm than expertise, and picking up the spare ribs in our fingers--perfectly acceptable in this kind of ambience.

To accompany this we had our first ever wine from China. Great Wall, a medium dry white made from dragon eye grapes, fruity with a tangy edge with hints of grapefruit complemented the many complex flavours well. A more traditional dish of crispy aromatic duck in pancakes with a delicious plum hoi-sin sauce followed.

Then the main course arrived: kung po pork, king prawns with hot chilli, a sizzling dish of beef in black bean sauce and fried rice.

Despite our protestations that we would never be able to manage to eat all this, it all disappeared. For dessert--how self-indulgent because of a traffic jam can one get--I had a mango passion fruit bowl and Steve had a green bamboo, another unusual ice cream.

A pot of fragrant Chinese tea for me and coffee for Steve ended the meal in leisurely style. The bill was just over £50, excluding the wine. When we left the rain had stopped and we were replete.

We may not have made the theatre but the Good Persons of Szechuan provided a most consoling alternative.

Lisbeth Rake

The Cellar Peking

32 Jewry Street, Winchester 01962 864178