WITH a name like The White Star Tavern you might assume this is a pub inhabited by locals who all have their own tankard behind the bar and are suspicious of "townies". Nothing, though, could be further from the truth.

In fact, Oxford Street's latest so-called "gastro tavern" is about as far removed from a spit and sawdust boozer as you can get while still falling under the umbrella of public house. Dining out is about more than just eating - it is a whole experience.

The White Star Tavern certainly makes that experience extremely enjoyable. Despite its nautical name, the White Star is not decorated with buoys and fishing nets but instead has a sleek, stripped-down look. The walls are woodpanelled, the floor is stripped boards and the whole restaurant is light and airy.

The service was excellent, both from our waiter, who was polite and attentive, and from the chef, who came to our table to discuss my special vegan dietary requirements. In fact, demonstrating the restaurant's eagerness to please even the more awkward diner - ie, me - the chef told me that he was working on a special vegan menu, so that he will in future be able to offer a good selection of dishes to me and my kind.

But fussy eater or otherwise, the restaurant offers a good selection of quality dishes that will make you never want to cook for yourself again. There is a daily menu, with starters ranging from around £4 to £6, main courses from around £9 and desserts at £5. My companions both started with a large portion each of mussels in bacon, garlic and parsley cream.

My starter was a delicious salad of avocado, rocket, pear, walnut and fine green beans in balsamic vinegar. For her main course, my sister opted for an upmarket seaside dish of herb-breaded plaice, chips, pea and mint pure and tartar sauce.

My partner had roast chicken, which he assured me was the best he's ever had, with mashed potatoes, green beans and cider and sage sauce. I had a warm salad of sweet red pepper, white asparagus, aubergine, cous cous and more in a salsa sauce.

All the food was delicious and the portions were big enough for none of us to consider a dessert.

The White Star Tavern is definitely a five star affair.

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The White Star Tavern, Oxford Street, Southampton

Reservations: 023 8082 1990.