Herring roe twists, slick with rich garlicky butter, resting on a bed of mixed leaves.

Seared tuna steak, meaty, complemented by a tangy tomato and herb sauce and succulent roasted vegetables.

Salmon fillet, served with a rich-red plum and port wine chutney.

The bistro-feel food at The Ship Inn - part of the Greene King chain - is delicious, with generous portions.

You get restaurant grub at pub prices, and the fish and meat is locally sourced. So local, in fact, that the meat comes all of 20 yards away from Price, the butcher across the road.

Should Andy Brown, the chef of five years' standing, run out of fish, he saunters down the road to Premier Fish, the fishmongers that attracts customers from as far away as Salisbury.

The Ship Inn underwent a luxurious £250,000 refurbishment some 18 months ago, the pub decked out in dark woods and ship memorabilia, with rustic tables and comfy chairs. The atmosphere is friendly and cosy, the bar staff attentive.

Our meal for two, including two pints of Abbots Ale and two bottles of lager, came to £37.

The Ship Inn, which has accommodation, is steering a course to catering for families - check out Sunday lunch, two courses for £8.50, and children can eat free.

From Wednesday to Saturday, from 6pm to 7.30pm, two main meals can be had for £9.95 on a limited menu, and the same again from 12 noon to 2.30pm on the same days.

The Ship Inn, High Street, Fordingbridge: Reservations: 01425 651820.