The first thing that struck me when I stepped inside the Indian Palace was, unfortunately, not the bright, refreshingly modern dcor but the smoke.

Several diners were puffing away on cigarettes, so I asked hopefully if there was a non-smoking area.

The answer was, surprisingly, no, but it was late, we were hungry and we were keen to try out the food at the newest of Gunwharf's stylish restaurants. The waiter offered to seat us as far away from any smokers as possible and checked with the people on the neighbouring table to make sure they weren't about to light up as well.

The menu seemed to have all the usual suspects, so I went for onion bhajees to start with and also tried a side order of okra. The rest of my party tried the king prawn butterfly (prawns deep fried in batter) and the prawn puri (prawns wrapped up in a chapatti).

Although crisp on the outside, the onion bhajees were undercooked in the middle, but the other starters were extremely good, particularly the prawn puri which was served in a delicious spicy tomato sauce, and the okra which had a lovely fresh, lemony taste.

The main course was even better.

On our table we tried the garlic chilli chicken, chicken vindaloo, chicken murgh tikka and chicken jalfrezi, as well as side orders of dahl (spicy lentils), brinjal bhajee (aubergine cooked with tomato), sag paneer (spinach with Indian cottage cheese), pilau rice, plain rice and a nan bread.

The garlic chilli chicken was first-class - full of garlic and flavoursome coriander - while the vindaloo was as hot as they come.

The chicken murgh tikka proved ideal for anyone who likes a mild curry that's slightly creamy without being too rich, and the side orders were an ideal accompaniment, with the rice cooked to perfection.

If the Indian Palace would only put in a no smoking section, I'd go back on a regular basis.

Our bill for five, including a bottle of wine, two bottles of mineral water and three gin and tonics, came to £100. FG

Reservations: 023 9221 4444.

Indian Palace - Gunwharf Quays, Portsmouth