STANDING on the observation deck of the world’s tallest tower really should be an unnerving experience.

After all, the Burj Khalifa is so imposing that it would make the Empire State Building seem puny by comparison.

In fact, even if you doubled the height of New York’s famous structure it would still be smaller than this 828m-high behemoth.

So why is there no sense of fear or anxiety as I stare out – and look down – from its 124th floor?

Perhaps it is simply because of the sheer wonder of what I am gazing at.

Laid out all around me, for miles to see in every direction, is the remarkable city of Dubai. It is a fascinating, mind-boggling, sight. What was almost exclusively desert just a few decades ago is now home to skyscrapers, extravagant architectural creations, luxury hotels, enormous shopping malls, theme parks, and even an indoor ski resort.

It is an intriguing, and in many ways outrageous, place. The sheer scale of what has been achieved, and the speed in which it has happened, is phenomenal.

And it is no surprise that, built on a foundation of unstinting luxury, Dubai has earned a reputation as a haven for the super rich.

If you fall into that category, then you are undoubtedly well catered for.

But Dubai isn’t just a millionaire’s playground – it also has a growing reputation as a wonderful family destination that doesn’t necessarily have to cost the earth.

Our base from which to explore and test that out was the excellent Mina A’Salam hotel, in the Madinat Jumeirah complex.

Perched on the edge of the Persian Gulf, next to the iconic Burj Al Arab hotel, it is a breathtaking location.

With friendly staff, gorgeous rooms, a host of restaurants and the popular Sinbad’s Kids’ Club – which also has a sister site at the nearby Jumeirah Beach Hotel – it is an ideal place to stay with the family.

And there is certainly plenty for everyone to do.

The Wild Wadi Water Park next door is an exhilarating experience, particularly the appropriately titled Jumeirah Sceirah ride, which hurtles you downwards at speeds of up to nearly 50mph.

It isn’t for the faint-hearted, but it is an absolute scream – literally – and the fearless youngsters, as well as those adults brave enough to try it, will love every second.

For those wanting a more relaxing water experience, the vast underwater zoo, featuring a huge amount of fascinating wildlife, inside the enormous Dubai Shopping Mall should do the trick.

If that doesn’t keep everyone content, then you are certainly not short of options in that retail heaven.

The Sega Republic park inside the mall is full of all the latest video game attractions, as well as simulators and even a rollercoaster, and is sure to keep adults and children alike happy.

Failing that, you could have a skate on the Olympic-sized ice rink contained inside the shopping centre.

But undoubtedly the most impressive attraction of all, maybe besides the shopping itself, is the bizarre world of KidZania.

An entire miniature city has been created deep inside the mall, where children can spend their day living out an imaginary life.

Whether you want to go to university, become a doctor, fireman, racecar driver, theatre star or – if you really want – a newspaper reporter, anything is possible.

Kids earn money for their jobs and can spend it at the shops, which include a scaled-down Waitrose, inside. It is an incredible idea that has been wonderfully executed. While that miniature part of Dubai is impressive, nothing beats the full-scale offerings, though.

The city is home to a huge amount of hotels, none of which are more awe-inspiring or opulent than the Burj Al Arab – otherwise known as “the world’s most luxurious hotel”.

And, even if you can’t afford a suite, or a table in its intimate underwater restaurant, you can at least visit and live the life of a millionaire for a short while.

But you don’t have to be a high roller to get a room everywhere. The next door Jumeirah Beach Hotel, which boasts a memorable wave-inspired design, is built very much with families in mind.

Or you can head down to the gorgeous marina area and stay at one of the Oasis Beach Tower self-catering apartments, which are an ideal way of keeping costs down, especially for larger groups of friends.

While Dubai’s astonishing variety of architecture – whether you consider it attractive or garish, triumphant or arrogant – will likely capture most of your attention, it is also worthwhile getting out and enjoying some of the more traditional aspects the emirate has to offer.

A desert safari proves great fun, as you race up and over the rolling sand dunes in a jeep, before watching a glorious sunset and enjoying a barbecue in a Bedouin camp.

And a visit to the Jumeirah Mosque and particularly the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding is also an absolute must. There you can enjoy a traditional, not to mention delicious, Emirati lunch, while your native host chats to you about customs, religion and culture in the United Arab Emirates. It is an eye-opening experience and helps dispel many of the myths that have come to characterise Dubai.

Everyone has read the horror stories of tourists falling foul of local customs, with serious consequences, but my experience was one of a tolerant, relaxed and welcoming society, as well as one that is incredibly safe.

While observing local practices is obviously appropriate – as it would be anywhere in the world – there is no need to be nervous about taking to the streets, or immersing yourself in the culture, and parents can allow their children to enjoy Dubai to its fullest without any worry of them coming to harm.

You can visit Dubai on a range of budgets – although by no means on a shoestring.

However, even if it costs a bit more than your normal European vacation, it will almost certainly prove well worth it.

Factfile

Gordon Simpson was a guest of Dubai Tourism and Commerce Marketing. For more information about Dubai visit definitelydubai.com or call 020 7321 6110. Three nights’ B&B at Mina A’Salam including economy flights with Virgin Atlantic from £835 per person. Valid for departures September 5 – 26, 2011. Call 0844 557 3859 or visit virginholidays.co.uk; Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari from £50 per adult / £45 per child.

For bookings with Arabian Adventures email: aadops@emirates.com or visit arabianadventures.com. Top 10 Dubai & Abu Dhabi guidebook. £6.99 from good book retailers.