HE’S known for his dedication to ‘real food’, local producers and back-tobasics approach.

Now Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall wants to instil those ethics in Hampshire through a new restaurant.

The chef, mastermind of the River Cottage series on Channel 4, is turning Winchester’s Abbey Mill into the fourth River Cottage Canteen, set to open sometime next year.

But those who have followed his efforts to become a self-reliant farmer in rural England might be surprised to know his passion comes from visits to Hampshire in his youth.

He said: “It goes all the way back to my childhood. My parents lived in London until I was seven but I used to visit a great aunt who farmed in Dummer, a village not far from Winchester. “This was where I first really discovered the countryside.

“Then when I got involved with the farmers’ market movement a decade ago Winchester was one of the first I visited and even set up a stall here.

“For years Winchester’s market has been blazing a trail. It’s one of the best in the country.”

The chef recognises he is known as somewhat eccentric but said it comes out of his dedication to sustainability.

He said: “It’s probably something a bit British but I think people get excited by my approach and my passion. If that spills over to eccentricity then I have no problem with embracing that.

“If you pursue your goal in a singleminded way I think eccentricity becomes a by-product.”

The West Country has been the focus of his restaurant business so far, with canteens in Axminster, Plymouth and most recently Bristol.

Mr Fearnley-Whittingstall was impressed with the architecture and setting of Abbey Mill, and has spent months working out a deal with the council to secure a lease and planning permission.

A former silk mill in the 19th Century, the listed building has more recently been used as a city council office, although it did serve as a restaurant during the Second World War.

He said: “One thing I’m really excited about is the building because it’s absolutely fantastic. There’s a great history about the city and it’s a very exciting place, much like Abbey Mill itself.”

The restaurant is not without its fair share of critics, even before opening, with neighbours concerned at its impact on their lives through noisy latenight customers and early deliveries.

Mr Fearnley-Whittingstall said he understands the concerns but wants the restaurant to benefit the community as much as it does the city’s coffers.

He said: “We would like to be a place for the local community and we are keen to get involved with local campaigns and projects.”

Now some of the red tape has been cleared on the building, his attention is turning to the menu, and finding local, sustainable ingredients to fill it.

He said: “We are very keen to use Hampshire ingredients. I’m not sure we will be coming up with a trout and watercress pasty anytime soon but we are about upholding traditions and those are two very good local ingredients.”