I'D HEARD lots of good things about the food at the Dog and Crook, so I was very keen to put its restaurant to the test.

In fact, the signs were so positive that I had to go for a Monday evening, after ringing four days in advance to book a table for the coming Saturday and being told I needed to book two weeks ahead for a weekend.

Despite being pretty large, the restaurant has a really warm and cosy feel to it, with its red carpets, pale yellow walls, brick fireplace and low wooden beams decorated with hops.

The atmosphere was quite lively, and there was a fairly extensive a la carte menu and a list of main course fish specials on the blackboard.

The Dog and Crook's chef doesn't seem to have gone for any one particular style of cooking, with Mediterranean, Thai, Japanese and traditional British influences evident.

For my starter I chose the pan-fried chicken livers sauteed with toasted pine nuts, smoked bacon and rocket pesto, served with warm brioche.

Although the chicken livers and pine nuts were a very tasty combination, I was a little disappointed with the way the dish was presented.

The meat and pine nuts had been put in the middle of a large brioche bun, giving the impression of a hamburger on the plate.

Because of its size, the brioche detracted from what should have been the central ingredients of the dish.

However, my friend was more than happy with his prawn and blue swimmer crab cocktail - a large and generous portion of juicy white crabmeat, prawns and salad leaves spread across the plate and drizzled with a marie rose-style sauce.

Unfortunately I think I chose wrongly again when it came to my main course.

My marinated goat's cheese, beef tomato and aubergine tower was delicious in itself, but it was spoiled rather by the mass of multi-coloured salad leaves which surrounded it and covered every inch of the plate.

The 'ratatouille dressing' which had been spread all over the salad was also very sweet and made the salad soggy.

But my friend was delighted with his sea bass - chosen from the fish specials board - which was flavoured simply with herbs and was firm and fresh.

The best part about the meal as far as we were both concerned though was the chips - main courses are served with vegetables and a choice of potatoes - which were cooked to perfection.

They were thick and crisp, with not a hint of sogginess or grease.

The menu changes fairly regularly at the Dog and Crook, with a new one due out on April 1, so I think I'll probably give it the benefit of the doubt and another try in the spring.

Our bill, including a pint of beer and two soft drinks, came to £38.65.

Reservations: 01962 712129.