It is always reassuring when booking a table at a restaurant to hear the staff talking in French.

Les Copains D'Abord, which translates as chums first of all, is on the A30 between Stockbridge and Sutton Scotney and was formerly the public house, The Leckford Hutt.

The restaurant has been open about four years and is very much a business run by friends and family. Grandmother's fish soup was one choice for a starter on the la carte menu and grandmere Mamie Irene also made the soup of the day on the set three-course menu (£15). The evening we went, it was hare casserole. The emphasis is on fresh, seasonal ingredients so the choices change daily.

Steve began with wild forest mushroom risotto with Parmesan cheese which had just the right amount of chewy stickiness. I chose the tomato and goat cheese tart with rocket salad--an interesting combination of savoury tastes. I am of the generation which has been brought up to eat everything on my plate, so found the huge portion of duck breast a bit overwhelming. It was served with mashed potato, which was the ideal way to soak up the tangy citrus sauce, and al dente vegetables. Steve had an equally large platter for his breasts of pigeon braised with vegetables. The meat was served rare, and, although it suited us, perhaps we should have been asked if we wanted it cooked a little more.

We drank a Morgon wine from the reasonably priced wine list. We requested a break before ordering light desserts of crme brule and strawberry clafoutin.

The coffee was the best we have tasted in a restaurant outside of France. The service in the small dining room was friendly, and well paced. Our bill, without wine, was £63. So, not a place to go to regularly.

Unusually, vegetarians are well catered for with several choices available for the starters and main courses. For those who would like to try the delicious food, there are less expensive lunch menus: £10 for two courses and £12 for three.

The restaurant is open from Tuesday lunchtime to Sunday lunch. Booking is essential.

Les Copains D'Abord, Leckford Hutt, London Road, Leckford 01264 810738

LR