Little Forest Lodge, Ringwood

SECRETS are sacred, but sometimes we stumble across one that simply has to be spilt. Tucked away off the beaten track, this gem has remained too secret, too long.

As I approached I wondered if this could really be a hotel and restaurant. It looks so private. It looked even more so with the sports gear left in the porch and again with a pile of cases in the hall - as if the children were home for the hols or guests had arrived for the weekend.

This homely lived-in feeling was enforced by a ''Come through to the lounge and have a drink'' by the charming owner, Judith Harrison. We relaxed in comfortable armchairs and absorbed more of the atmosphere - masses of photos on the walls, well-stocked bookshelves and picture windows with views of the garden and its large lawns.

The 15-cover wood-panelled dining room, meanwhile, has a rare Jacobean fireplace which is reputed to come from the old Poole town hall. The menu offers a choice of four dishes for each of the three courses.

The chicken salad with honey and soya dressing looked favourite against avocado vinaigrette until I saw that there was a chicken dish for main course. I settled for the home-made vegetable soup which came in a mini tureen. It was well composed and thoroughly satisfying. Denise was happy with her Galia melon and Parma ham.

Main courses included pork braised with fruits and spices and plaice with white wine and lemon juice which both sounded highly promising. However, I couldn't resist the sound of chicken pan-fried with tarragon, ver-mouth and cream. It produced a flavour reminiscent of aniseed - one of my favourites. Denise's roast lamb with rosemary was, we thought, just a little overcooked but the superb redcurrant gravy more than compensated. Four fresh vegetables accompanied.

For dessert, I wanted a house speciality so I picked plum tart. It did not sound the least bit adventurous but the quartered fruit was set in a perfect short-crust pastry. It surely deserves a more exciting name because it was joyous.

Denise stood by the philosophy that when fresh strawberries are available they simply have to be eaten. Again, a happy choice.

From an interesting wine list we had a glass of dry white Cuve Boisset. Heartily recommended. As we left I found myself saying ''Thank you for having us'' because it really felt as if we had been entertained privately. The bill, at £36.50 may have been a reminder that we had been out to dine, but it was not at all unreasonable for the quality given.

It's an easy half-hour drive from Southampton along the M27 and A31. Just before Ringwood take the slip road marked Owl Sanctuary, then turn right on to the bridge, right again and head back towards Southampton. After half a mile take the first turning on the left.

Converted for the new archive on 25 January 2001. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.