It was, Mrs M assured me, the best roast lamb she had ever tasted – and believe you me that is high praise indeed.

It’s not that Mrs M is over-picky you understand, but let’s just say her standards are high, extremely high.

I was relieved. True we were enjoying brunch in one of THE venues in London and you would expect the fare to be on the good side. After all, the Cook Book Cafe restaurant at Park Lane’s InterContinental Hotel had come highly recommended.

But there’s always that lurking concern that the experience would not live up to the hype.

I need not have been concerned. We were enjoying what was turning out to be one of the most sumptuous of Sunday brunch sensations – just the tonic to pick you up after a weekend’s Christmas shopping in the capital.

As soon as you arrive at the Cook Book Cafe the staff go out of their way to make you feel welcome. A glass of champers on arrival was essential we felt to settle us into the occasion, and were delighted to discover free-flowing top ups of our choice of champagne, wine or soft drinks were part of the inclusive brunch experience.

The setting is quite marvellous. Perched on the Park Lane side of the impressive InterContinental itself ‘brunchers’ can enjoy a grandstand view of all the comings and goings at what is surely one of London’s most exclusive spots.

The restaurant itself is spacious, bright, yet welcoming and intimate. The cooking stations are all central allowing diners to enjoy watching the chef-artists at work. And guests have the choice of either helping themselves to the buffet or staff will prepare food for them.

But if the setting was superb – the food was magnificent. Nothing short of a banquet of dining experiences was on offer to ensure we full experienced all that the InterContinental's team of top chefs could conjure.

Daunting? Not really. Armed with the knowledge that we could take our time – the table was ours for the afternoon we were told – we decided to tackle the feast in much the same way an ant eats an elephant – small bites over a long, leisurely period of time.

And so the courses came and went. I plumped for shrimps and salads, Mrs M tried the signature dish of duck eggs Benedict with smoked salmon and caviar.I assaulted the pan fried halibut in an orange sauce Mrs M was attracted to the Japanese cold fish selection.

I wolfed down the beef and Yorkshire, Mrs M was sated on the succulent lamb.

We saw, we sampled, we moved on.

Quite, quite superb.

Somehow, and it was a struggle, I managed to keep my eyes off the vast array of puds and desserts until I had had my fill of the meats and savouries.

And then the dam broke: hot waffles with apple syrup and brandy butter! Gorgeous.

And so the time eased by, to the trickle of cream, the pouring of sauces.

A small selection from the cheeses just because I thought I should, and our brunch wound to an end.

True Sunday Brunch at the InterContinental is not the cheapest of options. But for that truly special occasion, for when the boat well and truly needs to be pushed out, or for just when you think you’ve earned it by finishing the Christmas shopping, it really can’t be bettered. Believe me.

Sunday Brunch at the InterContinental costs £39 per person. Included in the price is unlimited champagne, wine, Bloody Marys, Bellinis, soft drinks, tea and coffee.

Visit cookbookcafe.co.uk or 0207 318 8563 for more details